Monday, March 25, 2013

SECRET IS OUT: UNION MARKET

"If it's Sunday I have to be at Union Market" says a little voice inside me, not because it is the only day it's open (Union Market is open 7 days a week) but because it is the most convenient day for me to make a trip there, and enjoy it without the crowds (valid for later part of the afternoon.)

Thanks to Washington Metro doing no work on the tracks during Cherry Blossom Festival, I had a chance to explore the market via metro, and found that it is a convenient and short walk from the NoMa/Galludet University stop (only one stop from Union Station) on the Red Line. You walk one block to Florida Avenue, turn right, then 2 blocks on Florida Avenue, and turn left on 5th to where the market is located - this would make only one block in New York or Chicago!



This time I am meeting friends who are visiting the market for the first time, so I will see if I'm overexcited about this place or if it's really exciting (see details of my first and second visits to Union Market at "Eat, Drink, and Don't Tell Anyone"). Not surprisingly, at the end of the day, they are as happy as I am with the Union Market, and they are planning to come back soon.

On this rather chilly-for-spring Sunday, it looks like we are not the only people excited about this place. At 1pm, the place is the busiest I've ever seen with no seats anywhere and 10-15 people lines at almost every food vendor. Yes, I say to myself, DC is hungry for good food!

While I wait for my friend, I wander around, and found my new favorite: Border Springs Farm which seems to specialize in lamb: Lamb sausage is not unheard of, but lamb chorizo anyone? Lamb salami? Lamb ham? Yes, LAMB HAM!!! Unfortunately the piece I was lucky to taste was made for an earlier event, and it was not available for sale until probably later this spring. My mind was already creating recipes of Eggs Benedict, Lamb Ham hash though... Then there was the Lamb Prosciutto which made me think of so many things before I had to gather my thoughts and walk away to meet my friend (prosciutto and blanched asparagus tossed with al dente linguini anyone? maybe drizzled with olive oil, pecorino romano, and lots of pepper? Or how about carbonara with lamb ham?)

Tasting Plate at Border Springs Farm at Union Market
Any friend I take to Union Market wants to try the Salmon BLT from Neopol Smokery after reading my first review of the market. So we always start there, and then work our way around... This time, I was there early enough for the smoked green mussels, which are very good, slightly sweet, almost like baked oysters but with a deep smoke flavor, which reminded me of Nelson, New Zealand... If you like seafood and smoke flavor, you gotta grab these green gems when you see them, they fly pretty fast from the shelf! I think there will be lots of smoked mussels paired with a good sauvignon blanc or the pouilly fume from Righteous Cheese in my future... If you have couple of friends and come prepared, probably a bottle from Cordial Wines would make a nice picnic at the market, too... Cordial Wines do tastings most weekend afternoons, and what I've seen so far has been mostly Italian, and lighter wines, perfect for spring!

Smoked salmon BLT and smoked green mussels from Neopol Smokery,
 with view of the Border Springs Farm  
Then we headed to Righteous Cheese where the cheese is very good, but the offerings are too strict and limited to my liking. You have to pick the beverage pairing offered with the cheese selection, which doesn't make sense a whole lot of sense to me. What if I want wine instead of beer with my cheese? Or what if I want an adult beverage with my cheese selection instead of the homemade sodas? The answer is pretty much "you can't" and I don't like that kind of approach at an artisanal market. Once you grab one of the very coveted seats at the bar, you can't even grab a larger portion of the cheese you want, you have to go with the pairings, and "no sharing, they are per person" - I am sorry but there are many other vendors willing to accommodate the way I want to eat at this market, so for now,  if I decide to go back to Righteous Cheese, it may be only packaged cheese to take home. And they are kind of limited on the non-sparkling red wine offerings, which comes as a surprise. Yes, it is spring, but most of the world drinks lighter red wines this time of the year, especially with beautiful spring cheeses. This goes in the pile of "give it some time before you go back" in my mind...

Based on that experience, when my second friend arrived, we pretty much ran to Red Apron, where they are always willing to accommodate with a smile. I am not a picky eater, but I have a pretty developed palate, so when I know something can make the experience better I am not shy about asking for it, and if it is not possible, that is ok, too, as long as it comes with a smile (and preferably a reasonable explanation.) Last time I ate a wonderful sausage sandwich here and asked for more hot mustard, the chef was happy to take my sandwich back to the kitchen and give me a whole big schmear of it, and didn't forget to ask how I liked it. Red Apron also lets you taste great beer in proper beer glasses, and gives you time to enjoy your beverage, food, and conversation. So after we bought the Smoked Salmon BLT (another friend who read about my first visit,) we grabbed our seats at Red Apron, tried couple of beers and made our selections happily.

Smoked Salmon BLT from Neopol Smokery,
and good beer from Red Apron
It wasn't too late before I was ready to run back to Border Springs for a chorizo sandwich (topped with mango chutney and goat cheese) and even as I was eating my first sandwich, I was thinking about possibly getting another one (yes, it was that good!) Fortunately, sometimes, I can tame myself... (for those of you that are keeping track, all I ate that day was half a salmon BLT, 2 mussels, and 4 crackers with tastes of 3 pieces of cheese in the first 3 hours! Did I say Union Market is a great place to graze all day?)

Good thing spring is around the corner, so we will enjoy more lamb goodies from Border Springs Farm. They also have lots to take home, including couple types of sausages, and a great menu that would make your tummy happy any time of the day (I have to come back for the Lamb Hash, and the Smoked Leg of Lamb Sandwich, and... and...)

Border Springs Farm Enticing Menu

A day spent at Union Market always makes you happy, yet craving for more, so I will be back, hopefully for more discoveries... In the meantime, cheers to the vendors and producers who make our lives better one bite at a time!

Map of Union Market Vendors - click to enlarge

Sunday, March 24, 2013

INSPIRED BY ... PASSOVER SWEETS

The Passover sweets we baked with Shelly were so good they were gone a bit too fast... especially when spring keeps hiding and I keep making tea and coffee to keep warm in the cold. I knew I wanted more amaretti, so I decided to make another batch, this time with some additional ingredients: 

I started with the same recipe we used with Shelly, but added:

- 1/2 cup of dutch processed cocoa
- 1/4 cup of ground flax seeds
- 1 tablespoon of cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
- dash of nutmeg
- dash of cayenne
- 1 more egg white

and,

- instead of almonds, I used black walnuts
- instead of liqueur, I used vanilla extract

This turned out to be a denser dough with cookies that almost tasted like a brownie, but still very satisfying. Also, I kept them in the oven until crisp, so they were a bit more crunchy than the original batch, but this is something I enjoy a lot, you can certainly take them out after 25 minutes and keep them softer. Because I love spicy cookies, next time I am thinking about adding even more cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne, but obviously it's all a personal preference. And I am also thinking about adding some coffee liquor just to see what happens. The possibilities are limitless!

Bon appetit!


Friday, March 22, 2013

JEWISH HOLIDAY BAKING PART 2: SWEETS FOR PASSOVER

When my neighbor Shelly said she needed some help for Passover baking, I was ready to help. Our Hamantaschen for Purim were so much fun, and I am always excited to learn something new (and give it my own twist later). 

Since Passover food does not allow for any flour (Shelly tells me there is lots of discussion around the rules of this topic which I am certainly not qualified to explain, but from what I understand, the general principle is that you are not allowed to use flour from grains or seed. Please check with your rabbi, or Jewish grandmother on the details) we prepared for this cooking session simply by looking for easy recipes ("nothing too complicated" said Shelly, and I completely agree as I find that sweet goods disappear fast in a house, and too much time spent creating them takes away from the enjoyment - at least for me, still I have lots of respect for people who can spend hours in the kitchen making mille feuille or pretty cakes, I just prefer to eat them). 

Shelly said her amaretti were very easy to make and I am always up for creating something more than just a recipe, so we nailed it down as the "tradition" option. During my research, I noticed that "haroseth truffles" were everywhere this year (at least in the media), so we thought we would also give that a try when we were baking the amaretti. The ingredients were easy to gather, and the work was minimal. 

We set to work on a late morning, first with the Amaretti [this part is for the food-curious: "amaretto" is the singular of "amaretti" which means "almond flavored." Some of you might be familiar with "Amaretto" which is a sweet, almond-flavored liqueur generally from Italy. Amaretti can also refer to almond macaroons made from marzipan or almond paste, or like it is in this case, simply almond cookies]

Almond macaroons are one of my favorite sweet indulgences, and I never knew they were so easy to make. Once we added ground almonds, sugar, egg whites, and the hazelnut liquor (recipe to follow) to a food processor and buzzed it for about 30 seconds we were done! Well, we had to put spoonfuls of it on a baking sheet and place in the oven, but still, we were done in less than 10 minutes (plus baking time) which is absolutely wonderful (note to self: always keep almonds at hand, and any time you have extra egg whites, make amaretti!)

Shelly ready to put the amaretti to the oven
During the baking time, we washed the food processor bowl, and then placed the ingredients for Haroseth in the bowl (recipe to follow), and buzzed for another 20 seconds or so to have our "dough." By the time we made little balls of haroseth and rolled them in coconut flakes, our amaretti were baked and we were ready to make coffee. 
Haroseth truffles rolled in coconut flakes
Amaretti baking in the oven
This could make a very good activity for kids or simply friends/family coming together to create good memories. I could hardly believe that we were done with two kinds of Passover sweets in less than 30 minutes, and already enjoying the results of our labor! 

Shelly with the first tray of amaretti
Whatever notions Jewish cooking might have out there, for me, it's been nothing but a pleasant experience so far, mostly thanks to Shelly. I am a big believer that when food is combined with tradition and love, the outcome is always a bit more than a bite to eat, somehow it finds a way to your heart and makes it feel warm and fuzzy... How does one say "enjoy" or "bon appetit" in Hebrew or Yiddish?

------

AMARETTI RECIPE (adopted from vanillagarlic.com via simplyrecipes.com) 

Note: To keep this recipe kosher we used kosher hazelnut liqueur (see pictures at the very end) instead of vanilla and almond extracts. You can adjust the ingredients based on your restrictions. The above mentioned Amaretto liqueur would be a nice substitute for non-kosher palates, or you can use apple juice for a non-alcoholic option.

2 1/2 cups almond flour (or 3 1/4 cups almonds)
1 1/4 cups of sugar
3 egg whites (we used large eggs)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
Optional: dried fruits or nuts to decorate

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 

If using almonds, grind them in the food processor until fine. If using almond flour, place it in the processor. Add the sugar and grind for about 20-30 seconds until the mixture is well blended and fine. Add vanilla/almond extracts (or the kosher wine/liqueur), pulse for a few seconds, then add the egg whites one at a time, process until smooth (do not over-blend it as it makes the cookies hard). 

Place tablespoons of the dough on the parchment paper and if you like, top with pieces of dried fruit or nuts (pinenuts are traditional in Italy.) If you like the cookies to be more uniform or fancier you can use a pastry bag. 

For chewy cookies bake for about 25 minutes, until the tops are slightly brown but the cookies are still soft to the touch. For crunchy cookies, bake about 30-35 minutes, keeping in mind that the cookies will get crunchier as they sit in the winter in dry air conditions, and will go softer in humid conditions. 

If you like, once they are cooler, you can make little sandwich cookies by attaching the bottoms of two cookies together with jam. 



HAROSETH TRUFFLES RECIPE (adopted from The New York Times)

1 cup coarsely chopped pitted dates
1 cup coarsely chopped dried apricots
1/4 cup dried cherries
1-2 chopped up dried fig
1/4 cup raw sliced almonds
1/2 cup raw pistachios
1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon pomegranate juice or liqueur of your choice (we used Kosher plum brandy see photo at the end)

Optional: roast the nuts in the oven or in a dry skillet until fragrant before starting the recipe, and let them cool down.

Combine the dates, apricots, cherries, almonds, and pistachios in the bowl of a processor and pulse until coarsely combined (not not overdo this step otherwise the ingredients will not absorb the liquid proportionately). In a small bowl mix the pomegranate juice or the liqueur with the cinnamon, and add to the dried fruit mixture and process until the mixture forms a smooth and sticky paste. If the paste is not sticking together, add more liquid one teaspoon at a time (this depends on the moisture in the dry fruits). 

Spread the coconut flakes on a plate, and put some water in a small finger bowl. Moisten your fingers, and roll half tablespoon size of the dough in your hands, then roll them in the coconut plate. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. 

Optional: You can roll the truffles in cocoa, melted chocolate or crushed nuts to create a variety. 

Important tip: You really need to chop the larger dried fruits into smaller pieces, otherwise they do stay in big chunks since we do not pulverize everything for long. I find that the best way to chop dried fruits is by scissors, preferably moistened with cooking oil or water. 
Hazelnut Liqueur we used for the Amaretti
Kosher Plum Brandy we used
for Haroseth Truffles

Sunday, March 17, 2013

ROSE'S LUXURY PREVIEW - AS GOOD AS THE FIRST TIME

I couldn't forget... I had to do it... I had to go back... The fried chicken lingered in my head... So did the pork sausage and lychee salad. And I was about to hallucinate about the banh-mi. Plus the preview of Rose's Luxury was coming to an end. If I wanted it in a week, there would be no place to get it... Tick tock... Tick tock... I have to go now...

So I was back to Aaron's food heaven. As usual he and his team were as busy, but still friendly, taking the time to explain to us what everything was about. My friend was excited, and I was maybe a bit skeptical... can it be as good? Like the first time? The answer was clear: oh yes, just as good, even better, because this time my senses were full of anticipation. The anticipation of when you want something, when you totally crave for it... and then you get it in front of you, yes it was very good. It turns out my dining companion eats banh mis almost every Saturday at a local Vietnamese shop, and Aaron spoiled it... No longer he can eat the banh mi there. Because Aaron's is pure pleasure... Perfectly creamy, porky, briny and crunchy with the pickles. And he spoiled his pop corn and fried chicken experiences as well, for someone who lived in New Orleans, when he said "this is possibly the best fried chicken I ever had" I knew I wasn't dreaming. Ladies and gentlemen, if you have tastebuds that like fireworks, Aaron is your guy. (click here to read my first experience and photos from his pop-up at Hogo's and you'll know what I mean)

French Toast Foie Gras by Aaron Silverman
At the end of a very similar experience as the first time, we decided to indulge ourselves and order the "foie gras french toast" as dessert (yeah this is when I want to lie in a grave and wait for the dish as I  will probably die from a heart attack or pleasure, I thought) and it was just as good as it sounds... With the slightly crispy outside and the creamy custard-like inside of french toast topped with barely seared, wonderfully creamy foie gras, and the cinnamon ice cream melting all over, it sure was some form of bliss I didn't know before. It was the perfect ending to an incredible meal, and a perfect goodbye to Aaron until next time. Since I survived the foie gras, I can wait for 4 months before he opens his new place. I cannot wait!

P.S. I'm hesitant to make it public but Aaron has a unique talent for combining flavors to make them bigger than on their own, and making texture combinations explode without overwhelming any one of them. My companion said, it was like a symphony where all the instruments come together to make a very pleasant and powerful impression bigger than what they could have done on their own, but still being able to distinguish each instrument. Bravo Maestro! For my money, just in terms of flavors and overall taste experience, the cooking here was much more powerful and memorable for me than my experience at Alinea 2 years ago (as much respect as I have for Grant Achatz.) And I am led to believe one more time, that we have someone (and his team of course) very special in DC. Kudos!

Monday, March 11, 2013

CHEF AARON SILVERMAN DELIGHTS AT HOGO FOR 2 WEEKS

When you love food, it's not unusual to get a phone call at night that says "you gotta check this place out" from your friends. But it's rare when someone calls you at midnight and says "we gotta go back tomorrow night" then you know you have to drop everything and go. 

In this case, the urgency resulted from Hogo featuring Aaron Silverman's (preview for Rose's Luxury opening in the spring on Capitol Hill) menu only for 2 weeks, and my friend's schedule being open only the following night (and maybe his respect for my never-ending desire to look for best and most interesting adventures in food, and willingness to show me what he had found)

So on a Saturday night, I walked into Hogo where everyone seemed to be in a happy mood, not in a way you'd find in regular restaurants, but almost like "yeah, we are part of a small group of people who found about this and can't wait to eat" kind of happy. There was almost a slight nod when I walked in, as if being a special agent you couldn't disclose but everyone else knew secretly. Hogo is a small, casual, dimly lit, brick place you would probably find more easily in Brooklyn or Chicago (I am so glad it is in DC), with average age of clientele around 30 or so. Cocktail list is long and interesting (ahem, Passenger is next door, should I say more?) leaning more towards exotic, plus small beer and wine selections. Friendly bartenders, good drinks, comfortable bar... but we are not here for that. We are here for the food - which I already had my eyes on, especially when the small plate of fried chicken morsels made their way out of the kitchen to the table next to the bar, I was tempted to reach across and grab, when "wait" said a voice inside (or was that my friend? Not sure)

From the cute little space you enter the kitchen through a passage way, and find bare barseating in front of a counter which could easily be a diner in New Jersey or the Midwest, lit with fluorescent lighting. I personally don't care (and apparently noone else as all seats are taken and people happily conversing and watching the action right in front of them)

Move over Minibar - I can watch the action and chat with the chef here for much less (just make sure you are not wearing your nice clothes cause the fryer is about 3 feet away!) Chef Aaron and his team are extremely friendly, not only prepping their dishes but also welcoming the customers, and chatting along with everyone. 

The menu is very small, and displayed on top of the kitchen hood with movable letters, as well as printed booklets in front of us:


The chef and his team (2 more cooks, 1 prep guy, and a dishwasher) are excited, and so are we. This is a place where you don't chose, you just let the chef roll it in for you at his pace (which will be pretty fast as the crowd grows outside).

We begin with Kusshi oysters with dark and stormy granita. Kusshi+granita+dark and stormy... do I need to say more? These are good!

Kusshi Oysters with dark & stormy granita
Then follows an amazing popcorn soup - yeah, not corn, but popcorn soup, served out of a small mason jar. From now on, I will be craving this at the movie theater, preferably in a popcorn bucket! Creamy, slightly salty, and with an intense popcorn flavor but it's like drinking the popcorn without anything getting stuck in your teeth (and it has pieces of poached lobster in it, too, does that help?)  Now I know we are in for a very good treat for sure. 

Pop Corn Soup with Poached Lobster
The pork fat banh-mi is the perfect bar food, and would make the perfect lunch every day (but craves for a strong hoppy beer - in my case it's the He'brew Lenny's Rye IPA from Schmaltz Brewing (well, Schmaltz is chicken fat, and this is pork fat sandwich - should work as long as we don't get a major curse while drinking it!) It looks like I won't be able to eat Banh Mi after this incredibly creamy, intense  pate placed inside a simple but real baguette, doused with the perfectly briny and slightly sweet pickle... What have I done? (speaking of pickle, we were also served beautiful pickle juice as bourbon chaser - if you haven't done it, you gotta try it, that's all I gotta say)

Next is pork and lychee salad. Well this sounds odd, for sure... Pork? Lychee? What kind of pork? Salad? (yeah my mind rarely stops asking questions) Relax, sit back (well you can't when you are on a stool, so sit comfortably) and enjoy. Preferably close your eyes. The instructions are to mix everything which makes a mess, but what a mess it is. You are served a bowl with lychees, ground (and extremely flavorful) pork bits, whipped coconut milk and red onions, and this is one bowl to savor. It is delightfully salty, slightly sweet, and incredibly satisfying. This is a dish you eat slowly and savoring each bite (good thing noone can hear the sounds I make with the kitchen hood working at full capacity)

Lychee and pork salad (messy heaven in a bowl I say!)
If you think we were swimming in "gluttony" and "sin" here comes the cleanest dish of the day: "crispy cauliflower with greek yogurt" which is wonderfully crispy on the outside and perfectly tender on the inside. Beautifully seasoned, with the crunch of the panko crumbs perfectly balancing the creamy tartness of the thick yogurt. I always loved cauliflower, but this makes it a "sexy vegetable" from now on. I can hardly stop myself putting my finger in the bowl to swipe the remaining yogurt on the edge. 

Crispy cauliflower with greek yogurt
Then follows what I've been waiting for - will it live up to the expectations after that pork and lychee? Oh yes, the answer is clear. The chicken thigh pieces fried at the perfect temperature makes them crisp and lightly brown, but when they are drizzled with honey and topped with sesame (or bene) seeds (and per preference doused with hot sauce), you are ready to beg the chef to bring it over the counter and the taste delivers (especially with the not so hot hot sauce), yes, I want more of this for dessert! (or like Anthony Bourdain said on the The Taste last week "Take me now") 

Bread & butter fried chicken
 (before we hit it with a good dose of hot sauce)
After that comes probably the only "ok" dish of the evening (well hard to top that pork/lychee dish and the fried chicken) which is a fragrant pho, but for my taste the salt flavor dominates the others. The soup is not salty per se, but in my opinion, the best part of South Asian cuisine is the delicate balance between salty, sweet, sour, hot, and bitter; and in this soup, the salty taste leads the pack. Maybe this could have worked before the pork/lychee dish, but not at this point, for me. 

Pho
I am ready to ask for another plate of chicken (and another one to take home and eat in bed so I can die in my sleep - happily) when the chef serves a small but potent dish which seems to be the theme of the evening: 

Crushed raspberries topped with whey stracciatella ice cream (chocolate drizzled in whey ice cream) and crushed merengue. Another complex and intense flavor combination to bring in the finale with fireworks even for someone like me who isn't crazy about dessert. If this is how deserts are supposed to be like, I am a dessert lover, bring it on!

Whey stracciatella ice cream served with
crushed raspberries and crushed merengue
Now I know why my friend wanted to go back... I am ready to go back myself the following day, only if they were open... As we leave, the considerably more crowded space and the eyes watching our seats are a sign we are not alone. This was a very memorable (if a bit too fast for my liking, but I understand the reasons, lots of people waiting!) meal I'd like to repeat often. Fortunately, Aaron is working on his new place (Rose's Luxury), and if this Q&A at Washingtonian proves right, I predict we have another Little Serow in our hands. Kudos to Aaron and his team - I can't wait for more!!!

Monday, March 4, 2013

EAT, DRINK, AND DON'T TELL ANYONE - UNION MARKET

VISIT #1: February 24, 2013, Sunday

When I find something I really like, sometimes I am under the impression that the "goodness" of the place is due to my particular mindset on that day, probably my search of "something good" in every step... So, when I finally made it to Union Market in DC last week, and was amazed after having such a good time, I needed couple days to evaluate. Was it really me or the market? Was it because the weather was nice, the drive through the city was pleasant, and I was hungry for a sandwich and beer... and found it at Red Apron Butchery? And with very friendly service unseen in this city?

 Sausage in a fresh baguette (weekly special) with Blast! from Brooklyn Brewery

I kept thinking... Was the smoked hummus (yeah, smoked hummus. More on this later) from Neopol Smokery really that tasty? Or did I want it to be that tasty, after hearing my friends were wandering around at Borough Market -a food-centric market in London where you find treasures on every visit-the day before, and wishing I were there, too?

CONTEMPLATING ANOTHER VISIT - March 3, 2013 Saturday

While preparing dinner, I was struggling with the above thoughts, and contemplating whether I'd go back on Sunday or not, until... I found a tiny bit of leftover smoked hummus in the fridge. "How did this happen" I asked myself, I never leave anything good stay in the fridge for more than 24 hours. Then I remembered last Sunday when... I had such a bliss eating the smoked hummus on top of rice crackers, sprinkled with smoked paprika and chipotle, and topped with kimchee while watching the Oscars at home, I had to hide the last bit in the back of the fridge before I went into a hummus and kimchee induced coma :-) So, curiously, I opened the container and decided, that this would be my answer to when to go back to Union Market. Little did I know... that one last bit, licked off the spoon was so good and so potent that, if I'd done it earlier in the day, I'd jump in the car and start driving. Unfortunately, given the hour, I had to wait til the following day which made me even more impatient. (In the meantime, I licked every bit of what was left in the container with my finger - yumm... Since I am not a cupcake or icing person, this must be how many people feel about icing)

VISIT #2: March 3, 2013, Sunday

I am told that mornings are busy at Union Market during the weekends. Since I prefer to linger and enjoy the atmosphere, I waited til early afternoon, and as soon as I walked in the door, my brain started screaming "see, it wasn't you! You weren't dreaming! This place is real!" I was happy to find the same buzz and happy faces. It wasn't the "give me what I want so I can get going" kind of craziness you get at some farmers markets in the city. It was more of a "I know this will be good, so I am willing to wait" kind of buzz you get at real food markets all around the world. Good things take time, and most of the vendors at Union Market, my friends, are very good!

Union Market offers free parking (entrance on 6th Street NE)
If you are new to the market, I suggest walking around first to see what entices you. You will see some vendors share tastes or stories, invite you with a smile, or simply say a friendly hello. And you will see some vendors not as confident, probably on their phones, or not paying much attention to the customers:


Such is world, and clearly I am not here to talk about them, especially when there are some who take lots of pride in what they do, and truly enjoy being there - this is confirmed time and time again, no matter how many times you pass by. These vendors are interested in everyone, and they provide a good product with a smiley face - which is all I ask for. Since you might be wondering, my top 3 places at Union Market are:

1. Neopol Smokery
1. Red Apron Butchery
1. Peregrine Espresso

It's not a typo - all these places offer something different depending on your mood and taste for the day, and they all deliver superbly any time of the day. Now more details - in case you wanted to know:

Neopol Smokery at Union Market
Since I'd done my tour last week, I knew exactly what I wanted: the salmon BLT from Neopol everyone was talking about (meaning the vendors - I asked couple of them where they eat at the market, and many of them talked about this particular sandwich.) Plus they had run out of it last week when I made it to the market, so now, I had to have it. Fortunately Mar (the friendly guy who made me taste and buy the smoked hummus last week) was there, with exactly the same friendly smile even though it was later in the day. When I told him I wanted the salmon BLT, he asked me how hungry I was and he explained he was going to prepare it from scratch, and it would take a couple of minutes. When I told him I was always hungry, he got to work on it, with a smile. 

More goodies at Leopol Smokery at Union Market
Yes, that is Smoked Roasted Garlic - from Neopol Smokery
Once I got my sandwich, I made my way to the next door vendor: Peregrine Espresso to get a proper coffee. 

A proper macciato from Peregrine Espresso - notice the hot water carafes in the back
Since I knew I was going to be in for a treat with the sandwich, I decided to perfection my coffee by asking for a "flat white" (not as foamy as cappucino and not as milky as latte, somewhere in between) which the barista responded with a smile even though it wasn't on the menu. Then looking at my sandwich he said "you have my favorite sandwich, 2nd best thing in the market" (after the coffee of course since he works at Peregrine). 



Once I had both components of my "perfect Sunday Meal" I found a seat on the corner and took a long-awaited bite from my Salmon BLT... ... ... It was an explosion of simple flavors where everything tasted like it should, yet, the combination of ingredients made everything even better. My teeth went through the slightly toasted sunflower and flax seed bread, freshly crisp lettuce, a bit of red onion, perfectly smoky thick bacon (which I found they smoke themselves, of course) and then the slightly sweet and flaky, full of flavor, salmon... and a hint of lemon, probably in the mayo (turns out it's aioli)... As I began to chew, the rest of the market disappeared into the background, and someone hit the "pause" button... All I could feel was this wonderful combination of great flavors in a happy place. My brain was happy before my stomach... I took my time finishing the sandwich and my coffee before I stood up to walk around for more. But before I did, I made sure to stop by Neopol and thank Mar for the great sandwich. Clearly, it was made with care. 




I was full and happy, so I walked around a bit. Salt & Sundry is a bit expensive but always fun to browse if you are looking for fun items on your dining room table or need decoration ideas. Right across is Buffalo Bergen which is famous for its cocktails:

    

Produce at Union Market
Flower Shop at Union Market









Leon Bakery has a great selection of breads, and wine shop offers tastings:

Baskets at the Leon Bakery
Cordial Wine Shop





















Harvey's is a full-service butcher shop (in addition to the cold cuts, pates, and terrines at Red Apron Butchery) which offers a large selection of beef and pork products (they even had a pig's head - which is not in the photos) :

Harvey's Butcher at Union Market
Benton's Ham from Harvey's!
The Dairy Shop is closed today

Nice lunch deal if you happen to be
in the 'hood during the week
Bakery or Butchery? Red Apron
 
It's fun to walk around at Union Market... You can watch the guys at DC Sharp sharpen knives, or watch the staff slice meats at Red Apron Butchery, and make beautiful packages... So good, you want to take one home... And of course, if you like beer (or wine - but they offer only one white and one red), you have to stop at Red Apron Butchery's bar section. Being part of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group, their beer selection is designed by Greg Engert (DC's not-yet-crowned king of beer) and offers great choices. And if Will is there (which is probably 80% of the time) he is always willing to help, explain, offer a tasting of the interesting beers, and if you like beer conversation, he is a great resource. While I was trying to decide between Blast (Imperial IPA by Brooklyn Brewery, NY) and The Maharajah (Imperial IPA from Avery Brewing Co. in Colorado) Will's advice came in very handy: Maharajah was seasonal and would be gone as soon as that keg was over. That was my favorite from last week anyway, so I savored my beautiful snifter watching the market activity - which makes a perfect Sunday afternoon in my book. 

Of course before I left, I had to stop at Red Apron Butchery to take a package home. The choice is always the toughest, but for me, on this day, it was an ounce of Saucisson Sec (classic French dry sausage) and one piece of Finocchiona (cured fennel sausage from Italy). 



When I said goodbye to Union Market, the sun was setting behind the clouds in DC, and I considered myself very fortunate to have spent part of my Sunday in a food heaven (as long as you know the gems). If you'd like to go, here are some logistical information from the source:






Thursday, February 28, 2013

INSPIRED BY... HAMANTASCHEN

I normally don't eat a whole lot of sweets, probably because nothing is as good as homemade. Well, the Hamantaschen we made with Shelly were gone too fast, and I was still craving for the perfect orangey, crispy parcels. Plus there was a sick person I loved but couldn't do much about since she was too far away. So, this time late at night, I put the ingredients of hamantaschen in a bowl and let the dough rest in the fridge overnight. When I woke up in the morning and there was still no improvement on the health condition of my aunt, I found myself rolling the dough... It's amazing how comforting baking can be when you need it... Almost as good as warm cookies out of the oven with coffee...

UPDATED HAMANTASCHEN

I replaced:

- regular flour with white whole wheat flour
- replaced 1/4 cup of flour with ground flaxseeds
- Replaced half of vegetable oil with coconut oil (melted in the microwave until warm but not hot)

and I omitted the eggwash.

The hamantaschen ended up being a bit more crunchier and nuttier with a bit more brownish hue to it. They were as delicious, and started disappearing as fast! 

Thursday, February 21, 2013

MAKING HAMANTASCHEN WITH SHELLY


When my neighbor Shelly told me she would like to make hamantaschen for Purim (according to Judaism 101 it is a fun Jewish holiday that commemorates a time when Jewish people living in Persia were saved from extermination) like she does every year, but needed some help, I was happy to sign up. I rarely bake as it is not as much fun to bake for one (not good for my waist-line to have a bunch of home-made goodies around) and also baking alone doesn't seem to be as much fun either. I remembered Shelly's hamantaschen from last year: not too sweet, and perfect accompaniment to afternoon coffee, or tea. This would be a great chance to spend time with her (Shelly always has interesting stories,) get the recipe (citrusy, perfectly crumbly even couple days later, but not hard,) learn about cooking/family traditions in a different family and culture, and distribute the wealth as one ends up with many of these triangular-shaped (well, according to tradition, they are shaped after Haman's hat) cookies to be enjoyed alone. And of course, for me it was an opportunity to connect with my grandmother whom I used to bake with when I was quite young, but since she passed away when I was fifteen I haven't had a the opportunity to bake with her as a grown woman which I am sure would be a wonderful activity. 

When I showed up at Shelly's home with the prune lekvar (a very traditional filling from what I learned by reading on the web - basically prune puree with orange juice, but since I am not Jewish I felt like I could take liberties and add my "touch" with cinnamon, cloves, and walnuts) she was finishing up her breakfast and was all excited for the task at hand. She had already made the dough 2 days in advance as we had planned (recipe to follow), and the rolling pin, baking sheets, parchment paper and various fillings were laid out on the kitchen island. Her dough is very unique (at least from what I read on the web) because it uses vegetable oil instead of butter (which makes it acceptable for kosher people who might be eating meat at the same meal, and for those of us who try to avoid saturated fats when we can) and has specks of orange rind which makes the dough yellow. It is also easy to roll out (with additional flour as needed), and as Shelly put it "very forgiving" - as long as you keep it on the cold side. I noticed that it got a bit too soft as we were getting to the end of the first batch, so we put the remainder back in the fridge for 15-20 minutes before rolling out the next batch.

Shelly sharing her technique for moving the first hamantaschen
to the baking tray in one piece

First batch of hamantaschen with various fillings ready to hit the oven!

By the time I was rolling out the second batch, the kitchen already smelled like "baking" - that wonderful aroma of, spices, oil, flour, fruit, and simply... love. Once the second, and the third batches were in the oven, we were ready to reward ourselves with good cup of coffee and a tasting of various hamantaschen to "test" the fillings (Shelly's husband Don's favorite is the Senseo single-serve coffee maker, and he was right, as every cup was fresh and tasty). The verdict is, all of them were good: apricot and plum are traditional, the nuts add a bits of crunch, lemon curd is tasty but too runny, and chocolate is decadent (note to self: think about chocolate hamantaschen for Valentine's Day next year!)

Hamantaschen fresh off the oven!
More hamantaschen - last batch!
As Shelly told me, these "hat shaped cookies" are made to share, so we shared with the neighbors in small bags we made (see below) and I hope those who had a bite could feel the joy and fun we had. 


I hope my grandmother and Shelly's grandmother (whom Shelly used to bake with when she was young) watched over with a smile. I wonder if there is any baking in heaven... Maybe one can bake any way she likes, and the outcome is always perfect... 

HAMANTASCHEN RECIPE

1 cup sugar
1 cup oil (we used canola oil)
1/2 cup orange juice
1 teaspoon vanilla
zest of 1 orange
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 eggs (plus one for the eggwash)
4 cups flour + extra for rolling out
1 tablespoon cornstarch (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda

Blend together the sugar and the oil, add the orange juice, zest, vanilla and 3 of the eggs, mix together. Fold in the flour, cornstarch, salt, baking powder and baking soda. Cover the dough and let it rest at least for 20 minutes or refrigerate for up to 3 days. 

When ready to bake, divide the dough into 3-4 pieces depending on the size of your rolling space, and roll 1/8th of an inch on a floured surface with a well floured rolling pin. The dough will be sticky, so adjust the flour to roll it comfortably and take it off the rolling surface easily. While rolling one batch, keep the rest of the dough in the refrigerator. 

Preheat the oven to 350 F.

Cut the dough to circles with the help of a glass or a cup, brush the edges with water, and place a small amount of the filling in the center. Fold one part, then the other two on the corners to create the triangular hat shape unique for hamantaschen, and move on to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (a spatula comes in handy) and continue until your sheet is full. The cookies will rise a bit, so space out accordingly.

Add a tablespoon of water to the egg and stir until combined, brush the cookies with the eggwash before putting in the oven. Cookies should be ready when golden, about 18-20 minutes.

Note: If you'd like to see my other Jewish cooking adventure, take a look at my Hanukkah Latkes by Way of London

Saturday, February 16, 2013

BITES FROM WASHINGTON DC RESTAURANT WEEK

So last week, when a friend of mine sent me an e-mail asking if I wanted to join him for restaurant week lunches, I'm not sure if he expected me to say yes for all of the possibilities, but that is pretty much what happened, and the following is an account of that...

First a bit of preview: I love food and trying new restaurants, but I normally avoid Restaurant Week, primarily because sit-down, 2-3 course meals are not very appealing to me as I eat alone most of the time, and in my opinion, 2-3 course meals at a table are best when enjoyed around conversation (preferably when part of that conversation is on the experience at the restaurant so I can get a different perspective). Second, I believe Restaurant Week is a great opportunity for restaurants to create exposure to new customers, and maybe showcase new items to their regulars. I see it as a wonderful marketing opportunity for when business is slow, but, unfortunately, poorly executed, especially in my experience in the past, mostly by rushed service, limited customer choices, pushy up-sell servers, and unenthusiastic chefs trying to create "value" for the "cheapskates who can't afford to eat lunch at a restaurant most of the time" (or when chefs take their vacations.) I am not saying that this is the case everywhere, but unfortunately this had been my experience and according to the local media I follow, a good number of customers. So I was a bit apprehensive, yet, I never say no to trying restaurants, especially when accompanied by good conversation (my friend is a beer and scotch aficionado so I knew I would not be bored) and I don't miss an opportunity to be proven wrong. And 4 days into the Restaurant Week, mostly, I've been proven wrong - which I love :-)

Before I go into detailed reviews, I must also say that we both went over the restaurant week menus, made list of places we already like, and want to try, and tried to focus on venues where we thought we'd be treated as enthusiastic customers who haven't given these places a chance as opposed to the people who are trying to make the most of RW and not planning to come back. And a little bit of homework, in my opinion, always pays at RW.

DAY 1 - ADOUR

Setup: This was the top choice on both of our lists as we don't think of Adour as a place to get lunch in the city, probably because of its image of expensive, exclusive, and probably best for special occasion. Right or wrong, that is what Adour meant to us before, and we wanted to see if it applied.

The staff at the hostess stand was friendly, but a bit serious (reflecting the hotel environment and training in my opinion), and this was the only place we dined at during the RW where we were told to wait for the whole party before being seated (which I completely respect as you never know when the rest of it might show). Our server was friendly, but I sensed a feeling of disappointment when we didn't order anything else to drink than water (we both had to go to work, and I personally don't like soft drinks with proper meals). 

Before we got our appetizers, we were pleasantly surprised by two small cheese gougeres "sent by the chef" (to every table) They were perfectly seasoned, balanced, non-greasy, and incredibly tasty - a teaser of good things to come I presumed... At a regular meal, this would be the time when I'd order half a glass of light white wine :-) (and if they offered, I'd stop by and buy those things by the box!)

Our first course selections were the pumpkin ravioli, and Atlantic Salmon Gravlax, which we were both very happy with, and agreed that the pumpkin ravioli was delicious. You could tell it was fresh pasta filled with proper ingredients, and perfectly balanced with with the cream sauce - yet another sign of good things to come (which is another sign of a good restaurant for me - make me impatient for my next course!)

Pumpkin Ravioli at Adour
Our second course selections were the braised tilapia, and the braised beef cheeks with polenta. Tilapia was prepared beautifully, served with 3 chestnuts and tiny bit of spinach, I personally would have liked a bit more greens, just to balance it out, at least for color. It was light and good offering for a small appetite. In comparison, the beef cheeks and polenta was succulent, satisfying, and comforting (it also craved for at least half a glass of medium to full body red wine, preferably a bordeaux). It was clearly cooked for a long time resulting in lots of satisfying flavor and aroma in a small package. This is the kind of food I would want to eat on a cold day when I need to feel good about the world...

Beef cheeks and polenta at Adour
Dessert seemed to be a bit of a disappointment and maybe an afterthought. I would have been perfectly satisfied with the sorbets, which I am sure were delightful, if they weren't drenched in so much whipped cream. I not only had trouble finding them in the glass, but also getting the true flavor, because there was so much whipped cream in my spoon by the time I reached them. If I had known, I'd probably ask for another one of those cheese gourgeres, as the pastry kitchen is clearly capable of good things :-)

Our experience was very nice overall, definitely orchestrated in a much quieter environment than what you find in the city nowadays, with good amount of space between the tables, plenty of daylight coming through the windows (another rare feature) and properly trained staff who do not rush you. In fact, I was having such a good time that I was thinking about ordering coffee when our server came back, however, he came back to drop our check (which we hadn't asked for,) I assume thinking we wouldn't order anything outside the RW menu because we had only water. The tables were about 50% empty and there wasn't a line at the hostess stand, so they weren't clearing the tables for new customers, which I'd be happy to leave for. This probably was the only disappointing part of the meal. It's disappointing when people make assumptions based on your selections and stop offering you more choices. Coffee to me is a very good ending to a good meal, and on this day, with the pleasant ambiance and the daylight coming through the window I was totally ready for a proper french press to compliment the good food we enjoyed. The way I looked at it, they wanted us to leave so we did. And as we did, we talked about the fact that we would come back for the ravioli... except for the fact that... it's not on the regular menu... neither is the beef cheeks...  

Result: I believe Adour accomplished what they went out for for Restaurant Week: to showcase their cooking, which in my mind passed with flying colors. This is a kitchen who knows how to execute classic techniques and provide good options from light appetites to stick-to-your bone meat & carb meals with elegance. Still with the prices, I believe it will remain a special occasion restaurant for most people in the city, which is probably what St. Regis aims for. I am glad we got to experience it, and I do see it as a viable option now for lunch, possibly for when we have a lot to discuss, and desire minimum noise and interruptions in a very nice environment - preferably on a sunny day. 

Overall: Met expectations (which were high) in terms of food. Exceeded expectations in terms of ambience, and non-stuffy service for upscale dining. 

DAY 2 - SOURCE

Setup: We both loved this place from previous experiences, but hadn't been to in a while. Our previous experience was limited to (very good) food and drinks at the street level bar and lounge.

After being promptly seated by friendly staff, I realized how different the setup was upstairs vs. downstairs. This is more of a sit-down, tidy-up, and sit straight kind of place (not as formal as a steakhouse, but clearly the contemporary design and the table-settings let you know you need to behave,) plus the tablecloths and linens - I can't remember the last time I was at a tablecloth-ed restaurant.

The challenge at Source's Restaurant Week menu (which resembles their brunch and bar menu very much) is making selections. And this is when going with a friend (or two) comes in handy. For restaurant week, we were allowed 3 choices each from the dim-sum menu, plus the dessert, which is a pretty good deal since The Source clearly and consistently delivers high quality dim-sum. And delivering this during Restaurant Week (and at our late-ish reservation hour) is always a sign of a good restaurant.

Our server was prompt, friendly, and didn't have an attitude (which is couple of pluses already.) She gave us plenty of time, answered our questions on "how do we decide?" "are we missing anything?" and still delivered with a smile throughout the experience. I noticed the other servers were similar.

We eventually decided on:

Lobster & Shrimp Springroll
Sea Scallop Sui Mai
Crystal Chive Dumplings
Duck Bao Buns
Chinese Spareribs
Szechuan DanDan Noodles

They were all, as usual, very tasty, made with care and delivered with a smile (even though practically every dish was delivered by a different person). Lobster and Shrimp Springroll is wonderfully crunchy yet light, a delicate package that creates a smile upon first bite (and a delight to look at:)

Lobster & Shrimp Springroll (with sauce) and
Szechuan DanDan Noodles (background) at Source
Sea Scallop Sui Mai and Crystal Chive Dumplings (filled with Korabuta Pork and King Crab) are perfectly cooked where you can almost taste the sea with a thin fresh dough wrap around. One of the many perfect bite-size taste-bombs you get at this place (especially when you dip them in the sauces)

Szechuan DanDan Noodles were a nice change from everything else, a bit spicy, and a bit of crunch from the peanuts, but for my taste, and compared to the other things we had, they were a bit "simple-note" for me, I felt like the noodles were dominated by the salty sauce. Maybe I was hoping for more texture. They are certainly a good choice if you are in the mood for noodles, probably I was more in the mood for "bites"...

Duck Bao Buns are... well... They are Duck..Bao..Buns... Any place these magical two-bite size "sandwiches" are made properly, you are in for a treat... This is one of the culinary discoveries (either with duck, or pork, or with all kinds of succulent meats properly seasoned and sauces) one has to take a deep breath before the bite... Then you close your eyes and try to maximize the short but powerful experience. The fat from the meat, the complexity from the sauce, the perfectly pillowy bun delivering the contents to your tastebuds, like a jewel on a pillow... Any time I have those buns I close my eyes and travel around the world in a quick second flying through some forest where the duck or the pig walked around, and I can smell the smoke that came out the pot where the sauce was made, in my imagination, somewhere in China. (Of course, David Chang makes a delectable one at Momofuku in New York, which is where I had my first bao bun, but that's a different story...  Zengo couple blocks away also has a very good version, too, where I can never have just one! The bottom line is, if you see those things on the menu of a reputable place, definitely order it!)

Duck Bao Buns at Source
OK, back to The Source. The best dish of the day was the Chinese Spareribs. They were smoky, spicy flavor bombs with a unique complexity of long cooking and the meat delivering a unique umami with the spice (clearly you gotta like spice and complex flavors). It was so good I was tempted to order another one (but didn't - applause please!) still, I asked the server if I could have another one instead of the dessert (the answer was "no.")

So we had the dessert, which was a nice and light citrusy cheesecake, but still, if I were to come back, I think I'd have the ribs for dessert :-)

By the time were were finishing up dessert, I noticed that there were only couple of tables left, yet the servers were not rushing anyone, which always makes it a pleasant ending to a restaurant meal. If you have customers waiting for my table I'll be happy to move on, but if you don't, I appreciate the opportunity to linger which to me is part of a good meal.

Overall: Source consistently delivers, both on food and service levels. This is one of the restaurants that do it right in the city, and is a joy to go back to. Since I'd been there a number of times before, it meets expectations, but if you've not been there and like dim-sum and modern Chinese food, I'd venture to say it'll exceed your expectations. 

DAY 3 - LINCOLN

Setup: We both wanted to try this restaurant but never got to it before. Having read mixed reviews, I didn't have high expectations other than wanting to see the restaurant prove the reviews wrong. I like restaurants that bring a bit of history and whimsy to a city, and a new approach to dining scene either from the culinary or the design perspective. I had heard and read a lot about the design, but minimal on the food. 

My first impressions of Lincoln were very positive as this was the busiest place I've seen during the week, and still there was staff buzzing around and the hostess addressed me almost immediately with a smile. She was very friendly, and offered to seat me even though my friend wasn't there yet. They were efficient in moving people along, so they got the bonus points from me. Another bonus point for dropping both the restaurant week and the regular menu. I believe that this is an important point restaurants ignore often when they have special menus. Yes, I may be here for a special menu, but what's wrong with showing me what else you've got? Especially with the menu they have, Lincoln told me a lot, not in terms of food offerings, but that they are a relaxed, fun place. Little quotes like "food for the people by the people" and a disclaimer like "moscow mule requires ID check" and giving me things to read about Lincoln on the back side, which I often find entertaining, especially when I dine alone. The menu properly -not in your face, but just so you know kind of approach- displayed that they offered happy hour and brunch (and the hours), which I appreciate, as sometimes you are at a loss when you want to come up with a place. Even before I ordered the food, I was planning to come back (provided that they execute the lunch of course.) Our server was prompt and informative, clearly trained for the occasion, as he welcomed us and told us about the "farm-to-table" "locally sourced" concept (thankfully in 10 seconds) once he found out we hadn't been there. Now I was totally looking forward to the food. 

Our first course selections were the oyster stew and the mushroom beignets. Oyster stew was fresh, very properly done, and properly seasoned (I like my creamy chowders on the peppery side, so I did have to add freshly cracked pepper which made it perfect.) The beignets were very well executed, surprisingly non-greasy, airy, and flavorful, and perfectly complemented by the mornay sauce. The presentation also got high remarks, and it didn't clump together the beignets but displayed them in 4 separate sections on the plate. Bravo!

Mushroom beignets at Lincoln
The second course came as I was savoring the last bite of my beignet, and was another powerful presentation:

NY Strip at Lincoln
The NY Strip was the best steak I've had in a long time, very succulent, properly seasoned and cooked, and served at the right temperature, showcasing everything good about a steak. It was probably about 2 ounces, which I do not have a problem with as when the steak is good, you don't need too much of it (like many other good edible things.) It was perfectly balanced with the properly "wilted" (and definitely not "killed") greens that were perfectly seasoned, and wonderfully carried the steak. The frites... Well, in terms of terminology, to me, they were too think and not crunchy enough to be frites, but, they were great steak-house potatoes about an inch wide, and beautifully stacked on top of each other. The portion of potatoes was a bit too much for my taste, but I am sure not too many people complain about that. I wouldn't either, if they had a bit more of a "potato" taste. I loved the presentation and the technique, but with such a wonderful steak, I expected a real good potato taste, which these lacked, and they were kind of bland (but would make great mashed potatoes with addition of lots of seasoning and butter or cream). Potatoes are hard to taste when you get the delivery, so noone to blame... However, when you set the stage so high, you do expect another perfect match... Oh well, next time... 

Oh yes, we did have another entree of course... I was so satisfied with my steak I almost forgot that we also had a very interesting lobster cobb salad, for which the greens and the toppings were presented separately, and properly seasoned (another bonus point). For my taste it was a bit hard to eat, but, I like the creativity and the effort. I am always willing to applaud someone who wants to try a different route. In this case I loved the presentation of the egg, and the lobster was tasty, again, probably very good for someone who is looking for a light lunch. We both struggled to find the bacon, which was right there in one strip, but we thought that it would have been much better if it was crumbled and served on top of the toppings. Creativity requires a fine balance with classics as one expects the saltiness and the crunch of bacon in a cobb salad, and without it you are simply having a salad with lobster, which has the potential for disappointment as good as it is. 

Now the dessert... Ladies and Gentlemen, we present a very proper, freshly-made, pear tart:
Pear Tarte at Lincoln
Our server did not say those things, but, he probably should, as the pear tarte was one of the best I've had in a long time. You could smell and taste the very good balance of butter in the crust which crumbled perfectly (not too much, but easily giving in when you put the sppon through without flying across the table), taste the pears and the almond cream which probably came out of the oven just about an hour or so ago. Every aspect of it was perfect, including the size, and of course it craved for good coffee, which our server asked right before dessert service. What else can one ask for? (maybe proper armanac? or pear brandy? there's always a possibility in my book) 

All in all Lincoln was the best experience of the week, with attentive and friendly service (even the manager stopped by to check on us, and didn't forget to mention brunch when we mentioned we were planning to come back), great food, and a lively ambiance which can be a bit too loud for some but that is kind of expected nowadays. I am very much looking forward to returning soon. 

Overall: Exceeded expectations on food, service, and overall effort. Now on my list of places to go back to more regularly. 

DAY 4 - EZME

Setup: Good or bad, we all have our experiences with "ethnic food" and in general it leads to limited expectations. This doesn't take away from quality of the food or service, but "ethnic food" generally brings with it the notion of less professional approach, which can be good or bad, and those of us who choose to go that route are generally open to adventure and expect all kinds of experiences. In addition, I've had my share of very good and authentic Turkish food, so I know that I am biased when it comes to evaluating the food... My friend is happy to go along and is interested in finding out what I think about the food here (as a matter of fact it was his idea to check this place we both had heard about)

We arrive at the small and cozy restaurant right after each other, and I am happy to see that my friend is seated already, and the room is about 75% full with people happily chatting - and some tables having wine or beer - either these customers know Turkish food asks for good conversation accompanied by a drink or two, or it is simply a sign of Friday in the city. The decor is simple but thought out, I love the beautiful tiles on the walls, and the small accessories scattered throughout at the right amount. It is not "corporate" nor "designed" but someone gave it a thought, and did their best. It kind of feels homey, or very much like what you would find in Istanbul or in any modern city in Turkey. I love how  they used the very limited space on the walls to store and display red wine (as long as they go through the bottles fast, and they keep the AC/heat on during extreme temperatures it should work - hopefully the expensive and/or rare wines are stored somewhere else) which makes the decor more authentic (reminds me of restaurants in Cappadocia region which is has been producing wine for many centuries) without going overboard. This whole "cozy-authentic without going overboard" totally puts me in the mood for good meal, and I can cautiously feel my expectations rising... 

This is the only restaurant we've seen 4 courses for Restaurant Week so far, which is very smart as Turkish eating is generally about small courses that give you a chance to taste many things. Our first selections are the Circassian Chicken (which is pulled chicken in walnut paste and spices) and Muhammara (which is roasted peppers, walnuts, bread, garlic and spices ground up to a paste). Both of these are presented as a one scoop dip with the very typical "pide" (Turkish flatbread which is thinner than foccacia, but thicker than what most people know as flatbread). One bite of each and we are both very happy with the selections (and I am growing even more curous about what's to come next - which is a good thing). Both dips are fresh, well-seasoned, and probably because of the walnut a bit on the heavy side if you aren't prepared for it and were to gobble it up, but frankly, they are absolutely perfect, because they are appetizers (meant to open up your appetite and prepare yourself and your system for more food to come). And with a good glass of raki (the anise-flavored beverage common in the Mediterranean, and has various names according to the country such as ouzo, arak, Pernod, Ricard -which are brands that became synonymous with the drink) they slow you down and remind you that food is a vehicle to help the conversation... Our second course choices are the quintessential lentil soup (which is what you'd see in almost every restaurant in Turkey in the winter) and the shepherd salad (which is finely chopped cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, olive oil, and lemon juice or vinegar,) both of which are very good renditions of what they taste like in Turkey. Normally we talk through the courses, but my friend's disappearing soup is a sign that he's quite happy with his choice. Frankly, I've never met anyone who didn't like this soup, especially on a cold and gloomy day like today!

Making a selection from the offerings got harder and harder as we progressed as the choices were all very enticing. This is when you involve the staff, and fortunately in this case, our server lights up when we asked for her suggestions, clearly had tasted everything, and so far she'd been very good, but her recommendation for the Adana Durum was absolutely spot on! I knew I wanted to try one of the meat entrees, and probably Adana was the lowest on my mind as it is possibly the hardest to duplicate in terms of getting the right spice mixture and texture you are used to once you've had those "kebap in a wrap" combinations a number of times. I was skeptical but curious, and I am so glad I was steered in that direction. The Durum (which means wrap - but it much skinnier than what you get at the sandwich shops in the US) was presented beautifully, cut up into perfect one bite slices, with a tomato in between each slice, a bit of yogurt sauce, and a good amount of sliced pickles to accompany. It was leaner than what you would get at most street vendors in Turkey, but perfectly seasoned, and if I closed my eyes I could totally imagine myself being in Turkey.

My friend's "Hunkar Begendi" (which literally means "the Sultan enjoyed it") is a richer dish typically prepared in the palace for the sultan, and is unique because it is one of the rare dishes you see a bit of a Western influence on this very authentic cuisine. It is roasted eggplants added to a bechamel sauce, and topped or mixed with cheese (think of mash potatoes with eggplants and bechamel+cheese instead of cream or butter) which is served with stewed lamb on top. It is one of the most satisfying dishes you can find in that part of the world, and certainly makes you feel like the "sultan" especially when presented in copper or silver pots which is often the case in Turkey. Fortunately, at Ezme, it was a relatively small portion, but extremely satisfying (I think the eggplant puree was a bit lighter than what you'd find in Turkey, but for a good reason, as it can be heavy for the non-Turkish palate when it is drenched in butter and cheese). 

At this point, we were both feeling like Sultans and were ready for the next course, dessert. The choices were baklava, semolina pudding, and Katmer (more to follow on this;) with the consultation with our server, we chose the latter two as baklava is more common (but not always that great.)

The semolina pudding is a pretty good option for people who might want something ligther, and I liked that the chef put the ice cream inside the pudding for presentation. Not traditional, but creative, and overall good effort. 

Now on to Katmer... Katmer is probably the dessert you are thinking of, when you think of Turkish desserts, heavy, sweet, and "too much."  In reality, to me this is the perfect example of why Turkish desserts exist... Succulent, indulging, yet extremely satisfying, especially when accompanied by Turkish coffee (or espresso - you do need strong coffee to balance it.) Come to think of it, desserts like this might be the reason why Turkish coffee exists (contrary to popular belief, Turkish coffee is a digestive, always enjoyed after a meal, and never for breakfast)  Back to Katmer... which is an example of, how in expert hands,  heavy ingredients can end up with something unique and special without being too heavy... I've had many versions of it in Turkey, and generally after a bite or two you cannot move from your chair (which is a sign of the recipe losing the balance, and generally tipping too much on the butter or the sugar side). But this one was perfectly balanced, sweet but not syrupy, slightly warm but not oozing, and still crunchy, providing the perfect (yes, that word again!) ending to a very good meal. Couple notes on this dessert in case you are curious:

Katmer means "layers" and refers to the filo dough layers wrapped around cream or soft cheese and pistachios, baked, then topped with syrup or honey. To me it is the "souffle" of the Turkish cuisine, sounds simple but slight imperfections in temperature and timing of ingredients can make it a mush of butter and sugar with nuts. When done well, the filo dough layers stay crisp and light, the cheese balances out the syrup, and the pistachios provide the crunch, so you end up with a very satisfying sweet indulgence, especially when accompanied by Turkish coffee... Without the coffee, it may taste a bit too sweet, so consider yourself warned. If there is any other dessert on the table, make sure to taste this one last as nothing will be as satisfying afterwards... 

After a 4-course meal executed well we left Ezme very satisfied. The service was attentive but friendly, the ambiance was authentic yet comfortable, and the food was very good. There may be some misses in the large menu somewhere, but today we didn't encounter them, and with the level of food that came out of that kitchen today, my only hope is that whoever was cooking stays on board. Well done!

Note: Even if you are not in the mood for wine, take a look at the wine/beverage list. On the last page there is a selection of Turkish cheeses, which is quite rare to see, but would definitely contribute to an eating experience at Ezme. Turks normally eat cheese as appetizer (preferably with melon) as an accompaniment to raki, but I am sure noone will be offended if you chose to eat it to finish your meal (but preferably not after dessert, as it is hard to top the place you reach after katmer). 

Overall: Exceeded expectations on all fronts, especially food. Definitely going back!!!

DAY 5 - ZAYTINYA

Setup: This is one of the restaurants that changed the eating habits of the city: lighter and contemporary design (vs. dark steakhouses of the time), small plates (vs. large portions and side dishes), and being able to order throughout the meal (instead of coursed meals or ordering appetizer and entree at the beginning of the meal. It has been around for a long time, and even though we'd been here before, we were curious about what brings people back, and if it were (still) justified.

Short answer: Yes. This restaurant (like The Source above) consistently delivers both on food and service fronts. It can be busy and loud during the height of meal times, but especially when you plan it accordingly (our lunch reservation was at 2pm - probably in line with the "Mediterranean" theme of the restaurant- and we were surprised to see we weren't the only ones) you get a slower paced meal in an airy, light-filled (during the day) dining room, with food prepared in the authentic tradition and delivered in modern dishes.

Long answer: Very good and fresh Horta Salata (bright and perfectly citrusy kale salad on top of hummus) as first course. Fattoush was tasty but is an adventure for most people (practically a lamb tartare, goes very well on top of crispy pita chips.)

Horta Salata: Tasty to eat, beautiful to look at!
Second course: Probably not very Mediterranean, but always attractive: a piece of seared salmon, tasty, but probably not the best choice when there are other options (yeah, I know, if you are going to eat all that warm pita bread and lamb, you want to feel you did well at some point... I get it) Our other choice was Kotopoulo Yuvetsi (chicken and orzo cooked in a tomato sauce and topped with feta cheese) which was tasty for sure, and probably another of those "feel-good" "you see I didn't pick red meat" dishes. Nice stew, feel good. Probably order a glass of nice Spanish wine with it, too :-)

Third course: When in Rome... If you know you are at a good Mediterranean/Middle Eastern restaurant, you have to go with meat. The spices and the treatment of properly raised meat makes it a totally different experience. In our case we chose Keftedes Kapama (beef and lamb meatballs in a rustic, cinnamon and all spice tomato sauce) which was beautifully cooked, so much so that you could feel the spices in the center of the meatballs, not to mention soak your thin pita bread in the sauce (yes, you must!) This dish (and many home-made versions of it) is one of the reasons I cannot eat meatball dishes at typical American or Italian American restaurants, tough to beat the perfect taste I've had many times. Our other choice was the Adana Kebab, which is a skewered ground lamb kebab, served with harissa, grilled, tomatoes, and onions. Once again, this is a dish that is just perfect when made well, and here it was made well.

Dessert: Turkish Delight (walnut ice-cream, yogurt mousse, caramel sauce) is as far as you can get from a Turkish delight or Turkish desserts, but light finish to the meal. Greek Yogurt and Apricots is more representative of its name, and again, a light ending to the meal. If I were to come back, probably I'd pass on the desserts, and get some cheese with honey and that warm pita bread, to be followed by Turkish coffee. Speaking of Turkish coffee (of course we had to order some!) this is the first time I saw Turkish coffee served in glass cups as opposed to the traditional porcelain cups with a saucer.

Turkish coffee at Zaytinya
As long as it is made right, it shouldn't matter I guess, but vessels play a huge role in beverages, and in this case, even though it looked nice, the fact that thick glass made the coffee cold (as opposed to the boiling temperature you normally get it) was a small detail I wish the restaurant would consider. Also, it's interesting to get a glass half full (or-half empty?) when you normally get a small coffee cup filled to the rim, as a sign of the skill of the cook (no spilling), and the abundance of offering.

Note: Based on the conversation at the adjacent table, Zaytinya doesn't have baklava but only baklava-flavored ice cream (huh?), so if you are expecting a traditional sweet end to your meal you will have to be adventurous.

Overall: Zaytinya delivers what it promises: "modern interpretations of the traditional cuisines of Greece Turkey and Lebanon, served in small-plate style" in a contemporary environment with friendly and efficient service. Despite being around for a long time, this restaurant exceeds expectations (provided you avoid busy times when it gets almost too busy for your eyes and ears). I'm always happy to go back to this place.