So last week, when a friend of mine sent me an e-mail asking if I wanted to join him for restaurant week lunches, I'm not sure if he expected me to say yes for all of the possibilities, but that is pretty much what happened, and the following is an account of that...
First a bit of preview: I love food and trying new restaurants, but I normally avoid Restaurant Week, primarily because sit-down, 2-3 course meals are not very appealing to me as I eat alone most of the time, and in my opinion, 2-3 course meals at a table are best when enjoyed around conversation (preferably when part of that conversation is on the experience at the restaurant so I can get a different perspective). Second, I believe Restaurant Week is a great opportunity for restaurants to create exposure to new customers, and maybe showcase new items to their regulars. I see it as a wonderful marketing opportunity for when business is slow, but, unfortunately, poorly executed, especially in my experience in the past, mostly by rushed service, limited customer choices, pushy up-sell servers, and unenthusiastic chefs trying to create "value" for the "cheapskates who can't afford to eat lunch at a restaurant most of the time" (or when chefs take their vacations.) I am not saying that this is the case everywhere, but unfortunately this had been my experience and according to the local media I follow, a good number of customers. So I was a bit apprehensive, yet, I never say no to trying restaurants, especially when accompanied by good conversation (my friend is a beer and scotch aficionado so I knew I would not be bored) and I don't miss an opportunity to be proven wrong. And 4 days into the Restaurant Week, mostly, I've been proven wrong - which I love :-)
Before I go into detailed reviews, I must also say that we both went over the restaurant week menus, made list of places we already like, and want to try, and tried to focus on venues where we thought we'd be treated as enthusiastic customers who haven't given these places a chance as opposed to the people who are trying to make the most of RW and not planning to come back. And a little bit of homework, in my opinion, always pays at RW.
DAY 1 - ADOUR
Setup: This was the top choice on both of our lists as we don't think of Adour as a place to get lunch in the city, probably because of its image of expensive, exclusive, and probably best for special occasion. Right or wrong, that is what Adour meant to us before, and we wanted to see if it applied.
The staff at the hostess stand was friendly, but a bit serious (reflecting the hotel environment and training in my opinion), and this was the only place we dined at during the RW where we were told to wait for the whole party before being seated (which I completely respect as you never know when the rest of it might show). Our server was friendly, but I sensed a feeling of disappointment when we didn't order anything else to drink than water (we both had to go to work, and I personally don't like soft drinks with proper meals).
Before we got our appetizers, we were pleasantly surprised by two small cheese gougeres "sent by the chef" (to every table) They were perfectly seasoned, balanced, non-greasy, and incredibly tasty - a teaser of good things to come I presumed... At a regular meal, this would be the time when I'd order half a glass of light white wine :-) (and if they offered, I'd stop by and buy those things by the box!)
Our first course selections were the pumpkin ravioli, and Atlantic Salmon Gravlax, which we were both very happy with, and agreed that the pumpkin ravioli was delicious. You could tell it was fresh pasta filled with proper ingredients, and perfectly balanced with with the cream sauce - yet another sign of good things to come (which is another sign of a good restaurant for me - make me impatient for my next course!)
Our second course selections were the braised tilapia, and the braised beef cheeks with polenta. Tilapia was prepared beautifully, served with 3 chestnuts and tiny bit of spinach, I personally would have liked a bit more greens, just to balance it out, at least for color. It was light and good offering for a small appetite. In comparison, the beef cheeks and polenta was succulent, satisfying, and comforting (it also craved for at least half a glass of medium to full body red wine, preferably a bordeaux). It was clearly cooked for a long time resulting in lots of satisfying flavor and aroma in a small package. This is the kind of food I would want to eat on a cold day when I need to feel good about the world...
Dessert seemed to be a bit of a disappointment and maybe an afterthought. I would have been perfectly satisfied with the sorbets, which I am sure were delightful, if they weren't drenched in so much whipped cream. I not only had trouble finding them in the glass, but also getting the true flavor, because there was so much whipped cream in my spoon by the time I reached them. If I had known, I'd probably ask for another one of those cheese gourgeres, as the pastry kitchen is clearly capable of good things :-)
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| Pumpkin Ravioli at Adour |
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| Beef cheeks and polenta at Adour |
Our experience was very nice overall, definitely orchestrated in a much quieter environment than what you find in the city nowadays, with good amount of space between the tables, plenty of daylight coming through the windows (another rare feature) and properly trained staff who do not rush you. In fact, I was having such a good time that I was thinking about ordering coffee when our server came back, however, he came back to drop our check (which we hadn't asked for,) I assume thinking we wouldn't order anything outside the RW menu because we had only water. The tables were about 50% empty and there wasn't a line at the hostess stand, so they weren't clearing the tables for new customers, which I'd be happy to leave for. This probably was the only disappointing part of the meal. It's disappointing when people make assumptions based on your selections and stop offering you more choices. Coffee to me is a very good ending to a good meal, and on this day, with the pleasant ambiance and the daylight coming through the window I was totally ready for a proper french press to compliment the good food we enjoyed. The way I looked at it, they wanted us to leave so we did. And as we did, we talked about the fact that we would come back for the ravioli... except for the fact that... it's not on the regular menu... neither is the beef cheeks...
Result: I believe Adour accomplished what they went out for for Restaurant Week: to showcase their cooking, which in my mind passed with flying colors. This is a kitchen who knows how to execute classic techniques and provide good options from light appetites to stick-to-your bone meat & carb meals with elegance. Still with the prices, I believe it will remain a special occasion restaurant for most people in the city, which is probably what St. Regis aims for. I am glad we got to experience it, and I do see it as a viable option now for lunch, possibly for when we have a lot to discuss, and desire minimum noise and interruptions in a very nice environment - preferably on a sunny day.
Overall: Met expectations (which were high) in terms of food. Exceeded expectations in terms of ambience, and non-stuffy service for upscale dining.
DAY 2 - SOURCE
Setup: We both loved this place from previous experiences, but hadn't been to in a while. Our previous experience was limited to (very good) food and drinks at the street level bar and lounge.
After being promptly seated by friendly staff, I realized how different the setup was upstairs vs. downstairs. This is more of a sit-down, tidy-up, and sit straight kind of place (not as formal as a steakhouse, but clearly the contemporary design and the table-settings let you know you need to behave,) plus the tablecloths and linens - I can't remember the last time I was at a tablecloth-ed restaurant.
The challenge at Source's Restaurant Week menu (which resembles their brunch and bar menu very much) is making selections. And this is when going with a friend (or two) comes in handy. For restaurant week, we were allowed 3 choices each from the dim-sum menu, plus the dessert, which is a pretty good deal since The Source clearly and consistently delivers high quality dim-sum. And delivering this during Restaurant Week (and at our late-ish reservation hour) is always a sign of a good restaurant.
Our server was prompt, friendly, and didn't have an attitude (which is couple of pluses already.) She gave us plenty of time, answered our questions on "how do we decide?" "are we missing anything?" and still delivered with a smile throughout the experience. I noticed the other servers were similar.
We eventually decided on:
Lobster & Shrimp Springroll
Sea Scallop Sui Mai
Crystal Chive Dumplings
Duck Bao Buns
Chinese Spareribs
Szechuan DanDan Noodles
They were all, as usual, very tasty, made with care and delivered with a smile (even though practically every dish was delivered by a different person). Lobster and Shrimp Springroll is wonderfully crunchy yet light, a delicate package that creates a smile upon first bite (and a delight to look at:)
Sea Scallop Sui Mai and Crystal Chive Dumplings (filled with Korabuta Pork and King Crab) are perfectly cooked where you can almost taste the sea with a thin fresh dough wrap around. One of the many perfect bite-size taste-bombs you get at this place (especially when you dip them in the sauces)
Szechuan DanDan Noodles were a nice change from everything else, a bit spicy, and a bit of crunch from the peanuts, but for my taste, and compared to the other things we had, they were a bit "simple-note" for me, I felt like the noodles were dominated by the salty sauce. Maybe I was hoping for more texture. They are certainly a good choice if you are in the mood for noodles, probably I was more in the mood for "bites"...
Duck Bao Buns are... well... They are Duck..Bao..Buns... Any place these magical two-bite size "sandwiches" are made properly, you are in for a treat... This is one of the culinary discoveries (either with duck, or pork, or with all kinds of succulent meats properly seasoned and sauces) one has to take a deep breath before the bite... Then you close your eyes and try to maximize the short but powerful experience. The fat from the meat, the complexity from the sauce, the perfectly pillowy bun delivering the contents to your tastebuds, like a jewel on a pillow... Any time I have those buns I close my eyes and travel around the world in a quick second flying through some forest where the duck or the pig walked around, and I can smell the smoke that came out the pot where the sauce was made, in my imagination, somewhere in China. (Of course, David Chang makes a delectable one at Momofuku in New York, which is where I had my first bao bun, but that's a different story... Zengo couple blocks away also has a very good version, too, where I can never have just one! The bottom line is, if you see those things on the menu of a reputable place, definitely order it!)
OK, back to The Source. The best dish of the day was the Chinese Spareribs. They were smoky, spicy flavor bombs with a unique complexity of long cooking and the meat delivering a unique umami with the spice (clearly you gotta like spice and complex flavors). It was so good I was tempted to order another one (but didn't - applause please!) still, I asked the server if I could have another one instead of the dessert (the answer was "no.")
So we had the dessert, which was a nice and light citrusy cheesecake, but still, if I were to come back, I think I'd have the ribs for dessert :-)
By the time were were finishing up dessert, I noticed that there were only couple of tables left, yet the servers were not rushing anyone, which always makes it a pleasant ending to a restaurant meal. If you have customers waiting for my table I'll be happy to move on, but if you don't, I appreciate the opportunity to linger which to me is part of a good meal.
Overall: Source consistently delivers, both on food and service levels. This is one of the restaurants that do it right in the city, and is a joy to go back to. Since I'd been there a number of times before, it meets expectations, but if you've not been there and like dim-sum and modern Chinese food, I'd venture to say it'll exceed your expectations.
After being promptly seated by friendly staff, I realized how different the setup was upstairs vs. downstairs. This is more of a sit-down, tidy-up, and sit straight kind of place (not as formal as a steakhouse, but clearly the contemporary design and the table-settings let you know you need to behave,) plus the tablecloths and linens - I can't remember the last time I was at a tablecloth-ed restaurant.
The challenge at Source's Restaurant Week menu (which resembles their brunch and bar menu very much) is making selections. And this is when going with a friend (or two) comes in handy. For restaurant week, we were allowed 3 choices each from the dim-sum menu, plus the dessert, which is a pretty good deal since The Source clearly and consistently delivers high quality dim-sum. And delivering this during Restaurant Week (and at our late-ish reservation hour) is always a sign of a good restaurant.
Our server was prompt, friendly, and didn't have an attitude (which is couple of pluses already.) She gave us plenty of time, answered our questions on "how do we decide?" "are we missing anything?" and still delivered with a smile throughout the experience. I noticed the other servers were similar.
We eventually decided on:
Lobster & Shrimp Springroll
Sea Scallop Sui Mai
Crystal Chive Dumplings
Duck Bao Buns
Chinese Spareribs
Szechuan DanDan Noodles
They were all, as usual, very tasty, made with care and delivered with a smile (even though practically every dish was delivered by a different person). Lobster and Shrimp Springroll is wonderfully crunchy yet light, a delicate package that creates a smile upon first bite (and a delight to look at:)
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| Lobster & Shrimp Springroll (with sauce) and Szechuan DanDan Noodles (background) at Source |
Szechuan DanDan Noodles were a nice change from everything else, a bit spicy, and a bit of crunch from the peanuts, but for my taste, and compared to the other things we had, they were a bit "simple-note" for me, I felt like the noodles were dominated by the salty sauce. Maybe I was hoping for more texture. They are certainly a good choice if you are in the mood for noodles, probably I was more in the mood for "bites"...
Duck Bao Buns are... well... They are Duck..Bao..Buns... Any place these magical two-bite size "sandwiches" are made properly, you are in for a treat... This is one of the culinary discoveries (either with duck, or pork, or with all kinds of succulent meats properly seasoned and sauces) one has to take a deep breath before the bite... Then you close your eyes and try to maximize the short but powerful experience. The fat from the meat, the complexity from the sauce, the perfectly pillowy bun delivering the contents to your tastebuds, like a jewel on a pillow... Any time I have those buns I close my eyes and travel around the world in a quick second flying through some forest where the duck or the pig walked around, and I can smell the smoke that came out the pot where the sauce was made, in my imagination, somewhere in China. (Of course, David Chang makes a delectable one at Momofuku in New York, which is where I had my first bao bun, but that's a different story... Zengo couple blocks away also has a very good version, too, where I can never have just one! The bottom line is, if you see those things on the menu of a reputable place, definitely order it!)
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| Duck Bao Buns at Source |
So we had the dessert, which was a nice and light citrusy cheesecake, but still, if I were to come back, I think I'd have the ribs for dessert :-)
By the time were were finishing up dessert, I noticed that there were only couple of tables left, yet the servers were not rushing anyone, which always makes it a pleasant ending to a restaurant meal. If you have customers waiting for my table I'll be happy to move on, but if you don't, I appreciate the opportunity to linger which to me is part of a good meal.
Overall: Source consistently delivers, both on food and service levels. This is one of the restaurants that do it right in the city, and is a joy to go back to. Since I'd been there a number of times before, it meets expectations, but if you've not been there and like dim-sum and modern Chinese food, I'd venture to say it'll exceed your expectations.
DAY 3 - LINCOLN
Setup: We both wanted to try this restaurant but never got to it before. Having read mixed reviews, I didn't have high expectations other than wanting to see the restaurant prove the reviews wrong. I like restaurants that bring a bit of history and whimsy to a city, and a new approach to dining scene either from the culinary or the design perspective. I had heard and read a lot about the design, but minimal on the food.
My first impressions of Lincoln were very positive as this was the busiest place I've seen during the week, and still there was staff buzzing around and the hostess addressed me almost immediately with a smile. She was very friendly, and offered to seat me even though my friend wasn't there yet. They were efficient in moving people along, so they got the bonus points from me. Another bonus point for dropping both the restaurant week and the regular menu. I believe that this is an important point restaurants ignore often when they have special menus. Yes, I may be here for a special menu, but what's wrong with showing me what else you've got? Especially with the menu they have, Lincoln told me a lot, not in terms of food offerings, but that they are a relaxed, fun place. Little quotes like "food for the people by the people" and a disclaimer like "moscow mule requires ID check" and giving me things to read about Lincoln on the back side, which I often find entertaining, especially when I dine alone. The menu properly -not in your face, but just so you know kind of approach- displayed that they offered happy hour and brunch (and the hours), which I appreciate, as sometimes you are at a loss when you want to come up with a place. Even before I ordered the food, I was planning to come back (provided that they execute the lunch of course.) Our server was prompt and informative, clearly trained for the occasion, as he welcomed us and told us about the "farm-to-table" "locally sourced" concept (thankfully in 10 seconds) once he found out we hadn't been there. Now I was totally looking forward to the food.
Our first course selections were the oyster stew and the mushroom beignets. Oyster stew was fresh, very properly done, and properly seasoned (I like my creamy chowders on the peppery side, so I did have to add freshly cracked pepper which made it perfect.) The beignets were very well executed, surprisingly non-greasy, airy, and flavorful, and perfectly complemented by the mornay sauce. The presentation also got high remarks, and it didn't clump together the beignets but displayed them in 4 separate sections on the plate. Bravo!
The second course came as I was savoring the last bite of my beignet, and was another powerful presentation:
The NY Strip was the best steak I've had in a long time, very succulent, properly seasoned and cooked, and served at the right temperature, showcasing everything good about a steak. It was probably about 2 ounces, which I do not have a problem with as when the steak is good, you don't need too much of it (like many other good edible things.) It was perfectly balanced with the properly "wilted" (and definitely not "killed") greens that were perfectly seasoned, and wonderfully carried the steak. The frites... Well, in terms of terminology, to me, they were too think and not crunchy enough to be frites, but, they were great steak-house potatoes about an inch wide, and beautifully stacked on top of each other. The portion of potatoes was a bit too much for my taste, but I am sure not too many people complain about that. I wouldn't either, if they had a bit more of a "potato" taste. I loved the presentation and the technique, but with such a wonderful steak, I expected a real good potato taste, which these lacked, and they were kind of bland (but would make great mashed potatoes with addition of lots of seasoning and butter or cream). Potatoes are hard to taste when you get the delivery, so noone to blame... However, when you set the stage so high, you do expect another perfect match... Oh well, next time...
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| Mushroom beignets at Lincoln |
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| NY Strip at Lincoln |
Oh yes, we did have another entree of course... I was so satisfied with my steak I almost forgot that we also had a very interesting lobster cobb salad, for which the greens and the toppings were presented separately, and properly seasoned (another bonus point). For my taste it was a bit hard to eat, but, I like the creativity and the effort. I am always willing to applaud someone who wants to try a different route. In this case I loved the presentation of the egg, and the lobster was tasty, again, probably very good for someone who is looking for a light lunch. We both struggled to find the bacon, which was right there in one strip, but we thought that it would have been much better if it was crumbled and served on top of the toppings. Creativity requires a fine balance with classics as one expects the saltiness and the crunch of bacon in a cobb salad, and without it you are simply having a salad with lobster, which has the potential for disappointment as good as it is.
Now the dessert... Ladies and Gentlemen, we present a very proper, freshly-made, pear tart:
Our server did not say those things, but, he probably should, as the pear tarte was one of the best I've had in a long time. You could smell and taste the very good balance of butter in the crust which crumbled perfectly (not too much, but easily giving in when you put the sppon through without flying across the table), taste the pears and the almond cream which probably came out of the oven just about an hour or so ago. Every aspect of it was perfect, including the size, and of course it craved for good coffee, which our server asked right before dessert service. What else can one ask for? (maybe proper armanac? or pear brandy? there's always a possibility in my book)
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| Pear Tarte at Lincoln |
All in all Lincoln was the best experience of the week, with attentive and friendly service (even the manager stopped by to check on us, and didn't forget to mention brunch when we mentioned we were planning to come back), great food, and a lively ambiance which can be a bit too loud for some but that is kind of expected nowadays. I am very much looking forward to returning soon.
Overall: Exceeded expectations on food, service, and overall effort. Now on my list of places to go back to more regularly.
DAY 4 - EZME
Setup: Good or bad, we all have our experiences with "ethnic food" and in general it leads to limited expectations. This doesn't take away from quality of the food or service, but "ethnic food" generally brings with it the notion of less professional approach, which can be good or bad, and those of us who choose to go that route are generally open to adventure and expect all kinds of experiences. In addition, I've had my share of very good and authentic Turkish food, so I know that I am biased when it comes to evaluating the food... My friend is happy to go along and is interested in finding out what I think about the food here (as a matter of fact it was his idea to check this place we both had heard about)
We arrive at the small and cozy restaurant right after each other, and I am happy to see that my friend is seated already, and the room is about 75% full with people happily chatting - and some tables having wine or beer - either these customers know Turkish food asks for good conversation accompanied by a drink or two, or it is simply a sign of Friday in the city. The decor is simple but thought out, I love the beautiful tiles on the walls, and the small accessories scattered throughout at the right amount. It is not "corporate" nor "designed" but someone gave it a thought, and did their best. It kind of feels homey, or very much like what you would find in Istanbul or in any modern city in Turkey. I love how they used the very limited space on the walls to store and display red wine (as long as they go through the bottles fast, and they keep the AC/heat on during extreme temperatures it should work - hopefully the expensive and/or rare wines are stored somewhere else) which makes the decor more authentic (reminds me of restaurants in Cappadocia region which is has been producing wine for many centuries) without going overboard. This whole "cozy-authentic without going overboard" totally puts me in the mood for good meal, and I can cautiously feel my expectations rising...
This is the only restaurant we've seen 4 courses for Restaurant Week so far, which is very smart as Turkish eating is generally about small courses that give you a chance to taste many things. Our first selections are the Circassian Chicken (which is pulled chicken in walnut paste and spices) and Muhammara (which is roasted peppers, walnuts, bread, garlic and spices ground up to a paste). Both of these are presented as a one scoop dip with the very typical "pide" (Turkish flatbread which is thinner than foccacia, but thicker than what most people know as flatbread). One bite of each and we are both very happy with the selections (and I am growing even more curous about what's to come next - which is a good thing). Both dips are fresh, well-seasoned, and probably because of the walnut a bit on the heavy side if you aren't prepared for it and were to gobble it up, but frankly, they are absolutely perfect, because they are appetizers (meant to open up your appetite and prepare yourself and your system for more food to come). And with a good glass of raki (the anise-flavored beverage common in the Mediterranean, and has various names according to the country such as ouzo, arak, Pernod, Ricard -which are brands that became synonymous with the drink) they slow you down and remind you that food is a vehicle to help the conversation... Our second course choices are the quintessential lentil soup (which is what you'd see in almost every restaurant in Turkey in the winter) and the shepherd salad (which is finely chopped cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, olive oil, and lemon juice or vinegar,) both of which are very good renditions of what they taste like in Turkey. Normally we talk through the courses, but my friend's disappearing soup is a sign that he's quite happy with his choice. Frankly, I've never met anyone who didn't like this soup, especially on a cold and gloomy day like today!
Making a selection from the offerings got harder and harder as we progressed as the choices were all very enticing. This is when you involve the staff, and fortunately in this case, our server lights up when we asked for her suggestions, clearly had tasted everything, and so far she'd been very good, but her recommendation for the Adana Durum was absolutely spot on! I knew I wanted to try one of the meat entrees, and probably Adana was the lowest on my mind as it is possibly the hardest to duplicate in terms of getting the right spice mixture and texture you are used to once you've had those "kebap in a wrap" combinations a number of times. I was skeptical but curious, and I am so glad I was steered in that direction. The Durum (which means wrap - but it much skinnier than what you get at the sandwich shops in the US) was presented beautifully, cut up into perfect one bite slices, with a tomato in between each slice, a bit of yogurt sauce, and a good amount of sliced pickles to accompany. It was leaner than what you would get at most street vendors in Turkey, but perfectly seasoned, and if I closed my eyes I could totally imagine myself being in Turkey.
My friend's "Hunkar Begendi" (which literally means "the Sultan enjoyed it") is a richer dish typically prepared in the palace for the sultan, and is unique because it is one of the rare dishes you see a bit of a Western influence on this very authentic cuisine. It is roasted eggplants added to a bechamel sauce, and topped or mixed with cheese (think of mash potatoes with eggplants and bechamel+cheese instead of cream or butter) which is served with stewed lamb on top. It is one of the most satisfying dishes you can find in that part of the world, and certainly makes you feel like the "sultan" especially when presented in copper or silver pots which is often the case in Turkey. Fortunately, at Ezme, it was a relatively small portion, but extremely satisfying (I think the eggplant puree was a bit lighter than what you'd find in Turkey, but for a good reason, as it can be heavy for the non-Turkish palate when it is drenched in butter and cheese).
At this point, we were both feeling like Sultans and were ready for the next course, dessert. The choices were baklava, semolina pudding, and Katmer (more to follow on this;) with the consultation with our server, we chose the latter two as baklava is more common (but not always that great.)
The semolina pudding is a pretty good option for people who might want something ligther, and I liked that the chef put the ice cream inside the pudding for presentation. Not traditional, but creative, and overall good effort.
Now on to Katmer... Katmer is probably the dessert you are thinking of, when you think of Turkish desserts, heavy, sweet, and "too much." In reality, to me this is the perfect example of why Turkish desserts exist... Succulent, indulging, yet extremely satisfying, especially when accompanied by Turkish coffee (or espresso - you do need strong coffee to balance it.) Come to think of it, desserts like this might be the reason why Turkish coffee exists (contrary to popular belief, Turkish coffee is a digestive, always enjoyed after a meal, and never for breakfast) Back to Katmer... which is an example of, how in expert hands, heavy ingredients can end up with something unique and special without being too heavy... I've had many versions of it in Turkey, and generally after a bite or two you cannot move from your chair (which is a sign of the recipe losing the balance, and generally tipping too much on the butter or the sugar side). But this one was perfectly balanced, sweet but not syrupy, slightly warm but not oozing, and still crunchy, providing the perfect (yes, that word again!) ending to a very good meal. Couple notes on this dessert in case you are curious:
Katmer means "layers" and refers to the filo dough layers wrapped around cream or soft cheese and pistachios, baked, then topped with syrup or honey. To me it is the "souffle" of the Turkish cuisine, sounds simple but slight imperfections in temperature and timing of ingredients can make it a mush of butter and sugar with nuts. When done well, the filo dough layers stay crisp and light, the cheese balances out the syrup, and the pistachios provide the crunch, so you end up with a very satisfying sweet indulgence, especially when accompanied by Turkish coffee... Without the coffee, it may taste a bit too sweet, so consider yourself warned. If there is any other dessert on the table, make sure to taste this one last as nothing will be as satisfying afterwards...
After a 4-course meal executed well we left Ezme very satisfied. The service was attentive but friendly, the ambiance was authentic yet comfortable, and the food was very good. There may be some misses in the large menu somewhere, but today we didn't encounter them, and with the level of food that came out of that kitchen today, my only hope is that whoever was cooking stays on board. Well done!
Note: Even if you are not in the mood for wine, take a look at the wine/beverage list. On the last page there is a selection of Turkish cheeses, which is quite rare to see, but would definitely contribute to an eating experience at Ezme. Turks normally eat cheese as appetizer (preferably with melon) as an accompaniment to raki, but I am sure noone will be offended if you chose to eat it to finish your meal (but preferably not after dessert, as it is hard to top the place you reach after katmer).
Overall: Exceeded expectations on all fronts, especially food. Definitely going back!!!
DAY 5 - ZAYTINYA
Setup: This is one of the restaurants that changed the eating habits of the city: lighter and contemporary design (vs. dark steakhouses of the time), small plates (vs. large portions and side dishes), and being able to order throughout the meal (instead of coursed meals or ordering appetizer and entree at the beginning of the meal. It has been around for a long time, and even though we'd been here before, we were curious about what brings people back, and if it were (still) justified.
Short answer: Yes. This restaurant (like The Source above) consistently delivers both on food and service fronts. It can be busy and loud during the height of meal times, but especially when you plan it accordingly (our lunch reservation was at 2pm - probably in line with the "Mediterranean" theme of the restaurant- and we were surprised to see we weren't the only ones) you get a slower paced meal in an airy, light-filled (during the day) dining room, with food prepared in the authentic tradition and delivered in modern dishes.
Long answer: Very good and fresh Horta Salata (bright and perfectly citrusy kale salad on top of hummus) as first course. Fattoush was tasty but is an adventure for most people (practically a lamb tartare, goes very well on top of crispy pita chips.)
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| Horta Salata: Tasty to eat, beautiful to look at! |
Third course: When in Rome... If you know you are at a good Mediterranean/Middle Eastern restaurant, you have to go with meat. The spices and the treatment of properly raised meat makes it a totally different experience. In our case we chose Keftedes Kapama (beef and lamb meatballs in a rustic, cinnamon and all spice tomato sauce) which was beautifully cooked, so much so that you could feel the spices in the center of the meatballs, not to mention soak your thin pita bread in the sauce (yes, you must!) This dish (and many home-made versions of it) is one of the reasons I cannot eat meatball dishes at typical American or Italian American restaurants, tough to beat the perfect taste I've had many times. Our other choice was the Adana Kebab, which is a skewered ground lamb kebab, served with harissa, grilled, tomatoes, and onions. Once again, this is a dish that is just perfect when made well, and here it was made well.
Dessert: Turkish Delight (walnut ice-cream, yogurt mousse, caramel sauce) is as far as you can get from a Turkish delight or Turkish desserts, but light finish to the meal. Greek Yogurt and Apricots is more representative of its name, and again, a light ending to the meal. If I were to come back, probably I'd pass on the desserts, and get some cheese with honey and that warm pita bread, to be followed by Turkish coffee. Speaking of Turkish coffee (of course we had to order some!) this is the first time I saw Turkish coffee served in glass cups as opposed to the traditional porcelain cups with a saucer.
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| Turkish coffee at Zaytinya |
Note: Based on the conversation at the adjacent table, Zaytinya doesn't have baklava but only baklava-flavored ice cream (huh?), so if you are expecting a traditional sweet end to your meal you will have to be adventurous.
Overall: Zaytinya delivers what it promises: "modern interpretations of the traditional cuisines of Greece Turkey and Lebanon, served in small-plate style" in a contemporary environment with friendly and efficient service. Despite being around for a long time, this restaurant exceeds expectations (provided you avoid busy times when it gets almost too busy for your eyes and ears). I'm always happy to go back to this place.









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